When in 330 BC the troops of Alexander triumphantly entered Persepolis, the fabulous capital of the Persian Empire which was ordered to build by Darius I, they must have found it difficult to acknowledge what was before their eyes.

On one hand, while they went up the wide, infinite rather, steps of the Gates of Xerxes, they were aware that they were taking possession of a symbolic object which was to justify all the Persian military campaigns, “the most hated city in the world” were the words of the feared Macedonian leader about the place that he’d come to destroy to avenge the distant memory of the Persian looting of Athens which had taken place fifty years before.
On the other hand, it’s not hard to guess that they probably felt totally astounded by the unprecedented wonder that they were facing. Every detail of the plains and the rooms of the royal palace (where they knew that up to 10,000 court members used to gather to welcome the Persian new year), was a witness of incommensurable wealth and glory, as well as magnificent engravings with golden decorations who used to astound the ambassadors from over 35 countries (including far away India, that they didn’t know that they would fatally go towards) which had queued up in those same rooms not long ago to present their valuable offering and receive blessings in exchange by the great King Darius and his God of Wisdom. To summarise, everything which has come to represent Asian luxury in our imagination.
Nothing of it, however, could prepare them for the shock in the face of the magnitude of the treasure, which they found intact due to the precipitated escape of Darius III. A lavish treasure which went further than words could explain which would finance the campaigns of Alexander beyond the known world, just as he was told by his master Aristoteles when he was only a boy.
The surrender without resistance of the city, the fact that it didn’t make sense to destroy something which was now theirs and their usual strategy of always trying to win over a conquered population are reasons which don’t help to understand the near total destruction of Persepolis, ordered by Alexander a few months later, despite that classic sources have already aired the impulse to avenge what happened the previous century in Athens. What’s true is that, since then, one of the most legendary cities of ancient times were reduced to the regrettable condition of ruin and exposed to a wayward and accident prone destiny (thirty years, Islamic fundamentalists tried to obliterate what was left of it with bulldozers) despite the work of abnegated archeologists such as the members of the Teheran Departement of the German Archeological Institute, which was founded fifty years ago.
Regarding this anniversary, the Pergamonmuseum in Berlin has organized an exhibition until March 4th (http://www.smb.museum/smb/kalender/details.php?objID=31882) dedicated to the story of the trajectory and archeological findings (from the stone age to the Qajar dynasty) of the Institute in Iranian territory in the last five decades.
It’s a thrilling exhibition which cannot be missed if you rent apartments in Berlin even if you’re not a big fan of archeology. It’s one which will create lasting hobbies.
Translated by: aleixgwilliam
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Translated by: Hans





